Heavy duty and Reliable
Im so happy with the quality of this bracket. I tacked it on and let a professional shop finish my welds. I truly think it is the toughest piece of hardware on my jeep.
THIS PART REQUIRES WELDING AND GENERAL
FABRICATION SKILLS. ONLY COMPETENT WELDERS SHOULD ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS PART.
Tools Required :
Safety Glasses, Gloves, , Socket Set, Wrenches, Wheel
chocks, Cutting Tool of your choice
(Sawzall, Grinder, plasma, cutting torch) Tie rod separator, Needle Nose
Pliers, Large Hammer, Lug wrench, Wheel Lock Key (If you have wheel locks the
guys at the tire shop probably lost the wheel lock key), Map gas Torch
(Optional but probably Required in Rust
Belt States) Anti seize, Blue Loctite,
Cutting oil, Welder/ Welding PPE.
Step 1:
Inventory that you have all of the parts for your order If you are missing
parts or have incorrect parts contact Artec Industries Immediately @
(855)-278-3299 M-F from 8am-5pm MST. If
it is after those hours please Email Sales@Artecindustries.com
Step 2:
Place wheel chocks at the rear wheels of the vehicle. Break free lug nuts on rear wheels. (Do not fully loosen or remove lug nuts yet.)
Step 3:
Jack up the front of the vehicle and set the axle on Jack
stands.
Step 4:
Remove the front wheels from the vehicle, An set to the
side.
Step 5:
Remove the steering stabilizer from the vehicle , remove the
passenger side sway bar end link, Remove cotter pins on Tie rod ends and drag
link, Then loosen the castle nuts. (Leave the castle nuts installed by a few threads ! ) Grab your Tie rod Separator, wedge it
between the knuckle and the base of the tie rod Hit on the end of the Tie rod
separator with your Big Freaking Hammer until it pops loose Then repeat on the
other side and with drag link . Remove
the castle nuts and the Drag-link and tie rod should drop off the Vehicle.
( Tip : If you have a small Map gas
torch heat the Castle nuts and heat the
knuckle some this will help break parts free in the rust belt states )
Step 6:
With the Steering removed from the vehicle no remove the
track bar from the vehicle. Now you can
cut off the factory track bar mount on and sway bar bracket on the Passenger
side of the axle .
Step 7:
Prep the axle the axle for welding by removing and paint/
rust. in the area from the C for the knuckle over 9 inches .
Step 8:
Tack weld TJ2016-3 to the TJ 2016-2 . Slip the TJ2016- 1 tab into the TJ2016-2
keyed slot (for proper orientation the Artec logo that is laser etched will be
facing up on the TJ2016-1 . Insert your
track bar into position on the mount and bolt then tack weld the TJ2016-2 and
TJ2016 together to set the mounting width
. Then remove the track bar from
the bracket and fully weld the bracket together.
Step 9:
Roll the TJ2016 Track bar mount into position on the axle,
The top of the bracket will contact the
bottom of the coil spring mount and the inside of the sway bar mount will
contact the side of the coil spring mount.
With the track bar mount in position fully weld it into place .
Step 10:
Clean the part of any machining oil, Prime and Paint the
part and bare areas on the axle.
Step 11:
Install the track bar into the vehicle, Install Passenger
side Sway bar end link. Then reinstall the steering on the vehicle . Now install the wheels. (Do not fully tighten all of the bolts yet) Jack up the vehicle and remove the jack
stands so you can lower vehicle onto the ground. With the vehicle on the ground
tighten all of the bolts and torque the lug nuts.
Step 12:
Take the vehicle to an alignment shop to have an alignment
performed to ensure everything is in spec.
Check all bolts for tightness after 50 miles
.
Install videos are coming soon.
Im so happy with the quality of this bracket. I tacked it on and let a professional shop finish my welds. I truly think it is the toughest piece of hardware on my jeep.
This is a really nice solid bracket I havent had a chance to get it welded to the axle yet but its proving quite difficult to figure out what needs to be cut. I am excited to get this on and fix my worn out holes but I would say that the manufacturer could do a little better with providing more instruction.
Fit great. It was well made and really solved the problem. High quality and well planned out.
I bought this bracket after replacing all of the bushings on my control arms and axle as well as my ball joints and unit bearings but still getting death wobble after some searching I found that the track bar brackets bolt hole sometimes gets wallowed out so I drilled out the bracket and the bushing and went with a bigger bolt but it seems to have wallowed out again. Should be getting the jeep over to the welder in the next few days so I have not found out yet if this will definitely correct my problem but I have to say that the bracket is solid thick steel that will definitely not wallow out.
This bracket is great for a simple clean install when the factory hole is beyond repair or in my case previous owner made a home made bracket that was garbage. With a simple buzz box welder the artec bracket will get your tj back to factory steering specs.
Solid little bracket that does its job. It does not include a mount for a steering stabilizer which I know isnt required but would have been nice.
Have used this bracket on several different axles over the years. Makes for a nice clean install if you have the worn out track bar mount holes.
A — Staff (Artec Team): Good morning Cameron. This Sway bar tab is at a stock height.
A — Staff (Artec Team): There is a second hole that you can run a bolt through to mount the steering damper
A — Staff (Artec Team): You cut off the factory bracket and this will weld into place of the oe bracket
4.83 average
1,334 reviews
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